Sunday, December 25, 2011

blue mountains, australia so far.........

So here i am on another rest day after shredding my fingers to bits climbing on the rough but awesome blue mountain sandstone!  This is my second long climbing trip here in the bluies and i am loving every second of it! During this first week that i have been here the weather hasn't really been the best may i say, but hey…. who cares! it hasn't stopped us from climbing. Its great over here because no matter what the weather is doing there is always crags to go to and some on to climb with, which is handy because i try to take the least amount of rest days as possible because just as any rest day, you get shit bored! But here i think it is defiantly very worth the odd rest day because it really sucks trying to bare down on those little crimps with taped up fingers….. it just dose not go well!

At the moment i am camping in an awesome location  in the middle of the Aussie bush right on top of the cliffs. I just take a 2 second walk down a little track and there is an awesome lookout point overlooking the valley, with bright orange cliffs on the side and the faint hills in the harison with the Aussie bush in the middle! looks really nice when the sun is in the right spot!

During this week i have been climbing mostly with my good friend Matt Norgrove who lives here and is very strong! It has been really good climbing with him because he knows this place off by hart and he can show me all the really cool lines that i should jump on! We have been climbing lots at the Glen mainly because that is the place to go to when it has been raining but i have also been to Boronia crag which i think is super cool and  have begone to line up a couple of really cool climbs there which i am super psyched to try! I jumped on this really cool climb called Green Eggs And Ham (28/ 7c+/ 5.13a) and i fell of the last move going to a big jug trying to stop my hands from opening up from pump! I was super stocked with this because last year i couldn't reach the first holds and was to week to do the first boulder problem! I was really happy to be able to do the start confidently because there are a lot of climbs that start on this same boulder problem! Cant wait to go back there when the weather isn't so wet!  At the glen there are many super cool climbs! Mat showed me this climb called Levitation (29/8a/5.13b) which i was first really intimidated by because there are some really big moves in the first boulder problem through the roof which looked awesome but hard. Anyway after surprisingly being able to do all the moves pretty quick, i went for the send on my second shot!, and of course i ended up falling off a move at the top that  was totally expected! It turned out to be a pretty  hard move when on the red point, so the next day i came back and spent a little bit of time making sure it wouldn't happen again…… I ended up ticking it a couple of tries later after falling of the hard moves on the first boulder problem on the try before hand!!!  super psyched!!!!!!

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Petzl RocTrip China!

This two week climbing trip to the Getu Valley in china was a great experience and a huge eye opener for me. The trip started with a crazy bus ride down a small windy road through a very poor but beautiful part of china. Driving in to the village i was in awe of how much rock i could see on ether side of the road, i just couldn't wait to wake up the next morning and go climbing.

Petzl Rock trip….

The event itself had a really cool atmosphere to it! every one was so friendly and fun to be around. It was really fun at dinner and breakfast time because every one would get around the tables and talk and talk and talk. it was so cool! everyone would just listen to everyones stories.

And the climbing was amazing…… During the first week Petzl had set up a flash contest in order to get everyone to visit as many crags as possible! During these few days i spent my time climbing at The Great Arch, The Buddha Cave and Banyangs Cave. These crags all seemed huge compared to what i am used to here in NZ. All of them consisted of many 30+ meter routes of amazing quality. Every crag during the event was packed full of climbers and photographers from all around the world and with lots of local chinese people with their cameras pointing in every direction. During the event there were also many really cool climbing movies playing on the big screen at night and often many parties which collected a decent crowd every time.

The following week with Five Ten was just as fun. The crowds slowly disappeared but the atmosphere stayed. This next week was really great and it was fantastic fun being apart of the Five Ten team, climbing lots, taking photos and just having a wicked time! During this week i spent most of my time climbing at my favorite crag Banyangs Cave. This is because after a week of climbing at the great arch and the buddha cave, i got a bit tired of slipping and sliding off the dusty slopers and when i found the awesome long crimpy routes at banyangs cave, i just loved it and couldn't stop going there. It was really good climbing with people like Dave Graham, Ethan Pringle and all those guys and i learnt so much from them.

During this trip i climbed some of the nicest and hardest routes that ive done!

>Calf 7c (Flash)
>Free Max 7c (Flash)

>Loco de noodles 7c+ (Flash)

>Going With Buddha 7c+

>Ki Di Buzz 8a

>Treblinka Pour Diego 8b

every route that i did here were top quality and i really enjoyed them!

I had never really done photo shoots before so it was all new for me and a huge learning experience working with the photographer Beau. He's a great guy and did an awesome job. At first I found it a bit weird having a camera always there but after taking manny photos with the locals and the photographers i began to get used to it and i began to enjoy it. it was amazing to see so many photographers super keen to hang on the end of a rope for hours on end waiting for the perfect photo.

Over this two weeks i had a ball of a time meeting all the best climbers in the world and just being a part of such a great team and such a great  event. So thanks to Five Ten and Spelean, can't wait for the next one!

I would also like to say a huge thank you to all my friends and family who helped me get there! i really appreciate it! :)

Saturday, January 22, 2011

bluies photos

bluies 18th,19th,21st,22nd

January 18th:
To day we went down to Porters Pass!!!
We warmed up on:
Chasing amy*** 21
Pussy Wallow*22

then we did:
LaLa Land**** 24
Ken and Cory also did:
Escape velocity** 24

Then the sun  got the better pf us and we decided to give up trying to climb in the sun!

January 19th:
We wake up early and it feels like my fingers are on fire due to the lack of skin on them so the best place for us to head is back to Porters Pass where the holds seem to feel more polished then the other sharp crystle crimps of the blue mountains!!
We warmed up on some real cool climbs:
First we did Spread em Baby* 22 (a real tricky corner!!)
then we did Cutopia*23(needs to have more stars ) such a good climb that involved hard slabby crimps mixed with sand stone foot smears and burly " turn around and run your bum off" run outs.
Then we moved around the corner to do some recommended climbs!
First up was a climb called Dragons Egg*** 23
We also jumped on a cool but very tricky 27 on a slab!!! We managed to dog our way up most of it but then our feet got to sore after slipping off the crazy smear patches so we pulled out....
We decided that was enough for the day and we went back to the house!!

January 21st:
Today we woke up early and did the big long walk out to a crag called the Egg!!
We Warmed up on a climb called Funky Monkey *** 24( 2nd go)
Then we jumped on Glow***26 which ken got 2nd go and i flashed!!
Then i jumped on a climb called Headshot****27 which  managed to dog my way up but the heat was creaping in fast so i couldnt give it another go!!

January 22nd:
To day we  went down to Centennial Glenn:
We warmed up on a few climbs that we have done befor then i jumped back on to a climb called Wrong movements ****27 but the holds are very friction dependent and the friction was not very good to day!
Then we moved around the corner to the main cliff and we did Earnest in Africa**25 and Nev Herrod **23
Then we went evan ferther around the corner for ken to give his nemesis climb one last go before the end of the trip!!He got so close  so many times but just didnt get it in the end which was dissapointing for ken!!
On the way home i bot ken a cream egg for his birthday present haha!!

Sunday, January 16, 2011

bluies 14th,5th,16th&17th of January

January 14th:
today we went to Zap cragg so ken can give pulse a go!!!!
He  pulled on to try and link the whole crux and snapped a crushal hold off!!!!
He was gutted!!!!
After that he was a bit sad so we left and went to Bardons lookout.
i finally got a climb called:
The way of all flesh*****28!
Then we went to Boronia point for ken to try:
Green Eggs And Ham****28
But Ken wasnt in the in the mood to try hard after breaking the hold on the other climb!!!haha

January 15th:
Today we went to Diamond Falls for the first time!!!!
It was realy cool but most of it was wet from the showers the day before!
we tried lots of cool stuff but got spanked on most of the harder stuff there but it was a realy cool place!!!

January 16th:
Today we went back to a place called Gateway!!
After a long warm up i jumped on my project a few times and finally managed to get it!!!
the climb is called:
Gateway* 28!!
it should definatly have more stars haha!!!

January 17th:
Today we went to to Shippley Upper for ken to warm up on:
These peaple are sandwiches***28
Hold on to your hats 18
Pallets of pies** 24
Then went to main cliff for ken to try:
Trix Roughly****26
He got it after a few tries!!!
Then we went down to Porters pass
Ken did:
Blackheathen****24(2nd go)

We got back home and went for a swim in the local pool.....

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

bluies 7th,8th,10th and 12th of January!!!!

7th of January:
To day the weather is not verry good but we are still able to climb!!!!
We decided to walk down to Porters Pass because we had heard that it stays dry in the rain and it is a place we havnt been to yet....
we warmed up on:
So Said The king**21
Nylon Happy ****22
Then i tried this real hard 25 but got spanked on it!!!!!
Then we went around the corner to try a climb called:
Self Portrait******29 it was real hard!!!!!!
then i tried this 26 called Sail Away wich ii didnt realy like!

8th January:
We went back t Bardons Lookout!!!
it was raining again but this cragg doesnt get wet!!!
After a few working sessions Ken managed to pull his way through the start and cruise his way to the top of a climb called:
The Way Of All Flesh*****28!!!!
I managed to pull through the start a couple of time but couldnt link it from the ground!!!
Hopefully next time i will do it!!!!!

10th of January:
The weather is still crap!!!!
decided to go to wave wall because we new it would be dry there !!!!
We did:
Jaqueline Hyde** 24
The Tube**24
Ken also did:
Shore Break **24

12th of January:
We went bacck to Wave Wall to repeat some climbs just to get some climbing in!!! instead of sitting at home hiding from the rain!!!!

Thursday, January 6, 2011

bluies 30th,1st,3rd,4thand 6th!!!!

30th of december:
Today we went to a cragg called Logan Brae!!!!!!
Its a cool place with many awesome routes:
I did:
 >Elastic Analysis** 23
>Rain Maker** 24
>Dr Stein*****25 (flash)

Ken did:
>Room With A View**22
>The Never Believers***23
>Dr Stein***** 25 (onsight)
>Surprise Package***24

1st of january:
Today we went to shipley upper again!!!
I did:
>These peaple are sandwiches****22
>Pallets of Pies**24 (onsight)
>Then i tried a cool climb called Equaliser****28. It might go???

3rd of january:
Today we went back to Bardens Lookout!!!!!!
We both did the 26 version of a climb called The Way Of All Flesh which is the Batman start to it!!!
We both were getting close to doing the 28 start!!

4th of january:
Today we went to a cragg called Gate way!!!!
It was the first time we had been there and it was awesome!!!
I did:
>Smooth And Crunchy*18 ( i did it twice to warm up)
>Then i tried this climb called Gateway***28 which is so cool and i got real close a few times so i am real keen to go back there and send it!!!!! (i tried it about 4 times haha)

Ken did:
>Smooth and crunchy* 18
>tried a real hard looking 24 called The Amateur ** but didnt get it
> he tried Gateway once but it wasnt really his style
>He then tried this other climb which was a bit more his style called Super Sprimkle Cake **28

6th of january:
We went to a crag called Mitchells ridge!!!
It is a small but real cool place!!!
We jumped on the clssic climb called:
We both got it 2nd go. it is a real cool climb!!!!